75ZT Community

I have a few nice little projects that I would like to do, but this weather is holding me back, do you have any projects that you are waiting to do but are also being held back by our lovely English weather.

My first one is to fit some rear mud flaps to my tourer, Oh yes they are facelift ones.
Special thanks to DaveyC with help in finding and supplying these, they are cleaned and ready to go no sooner the weather gives us a break.
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The next one is to replace my diesel fuel lines and pipe unions from plastic to brass ones, thus making them stronger if and when I need to remove them when changing my PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve) filter,which I do twice a year spring and Autumn this will eliminate the chance of the plastic union T joint sheering off.
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I also want to fit an Ariel Fin to the roof of the car this is just for Aesthetics
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And last but not least I want to get under the car and check the heat shields for security, Arctic

Please add your post your little project if you so wish.

Steve,can you please tell me where you bought the fuel lines and brass unions,I would like to do the same on my car. I also change my P.C.V. twice yearly.
Thanks in anticipation, shy talk,

Hi William
Here you go click the link Arctic
http://dieselcomponents.co.uk/shop/cate ... Bosch.html

Hi Members.
Well it as been a full 8 days since I posted about the jobs I would like to catch upon but had not been able to due to our not so kind weather.

Finally today albeit in between sun and showers I managed to tackle one of the jobs, the fuel line and unions
which I have been wanting to do for sometime now, I am changing these from the plastic union fuel joint to brass union joints thus making them more robust, less brittle and less chance of breaking at the T joint when I have to remove them to change the PCV filter or for any other reason.

These are the new brass unions and fuel line below Fig 1
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These are the old plastic fuel unions and line removed Fig 2
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This is a job anyone of us can do not complicated at all, first remove the engine cover three bolts 8mm once removed you will see the unions and fuel line. Fig 3
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First you need to use a 5mm socket to remove the three star headed bolts holding the electric wiring rail this can be moved out of the way to give you better access. Fig 4/5
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Then unplug each connection on each injector Fig 6/7
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You can then move the electric wiring rail out of the way. Fig 8
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You now need to trace the corded fuel line back from the first injector, to the main metal fuel line as here in Figs 9/10/11
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You will see the main metal fuel line just under the manifold, this is where the corded fuel line joins it Fig 12
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Measure the distance from the main metal fuel line to the first union joint and cut a piece of new corded fuel to this length and fit a new brass union in the end. Fig 13
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I have only shown you the above 9-13 so if you wanted to add new corded fuel line at those points you can do so but it is not essential as you can start from the first union to the last one with new cord.

From the first new brass union to the next union measure out the fuel line by placing it next to the old line and cutting the length needed Fig 14
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And so on fitting each new brass union to the new fuel line as you go along, until you reach the last injector and you have the full four unions as in Fig16
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Now remove the spring clips from each old union keeping them safe even though you will and should have four new ones to replace them with Fig 17
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Having removed all the four spring clips, you can now remove each union either by pulling up or teasing up with a thin bladed screwdriver as I did here Fig 18/19
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You now lift out all the old union there is virtually no fuel leak so don't worry, replace with the new length of fuel line with the brass unions. Fig 20
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Make sure you have pushed the new brass unions fully home, no worry of breaking the T joints now re-fit the spring clips and the electric wiring rail, Fig 21
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Now if you have left in place the old corded fuel line from main fuel lien to first injector the job is finished start the car check all joints for leaks etc there should be none, re-fit the engine cover.

If you are fitting new corded fuel line all the way through your last job is to join the fuel line at the metal T joint under the manifold, you will need a long flat bladed screwdriver to prise the old line from the joint then fit the new fuel line to the T joint your job is done and follow the above. cheers Arctic.

Hi All.
Ok yesterday when I had a hour I decided to check out the under side of the car, as I have bought two 5ltr tins of waxyol and intend to wire brush the under side of the car from flaking paint etc.

When I looked and started to do a test area I notice that the exhaust heat shield had corroded round the bolts holding it in place and was hanging down, my intentions then turned to sorting that out and this is how I did it.

Heat shield hanging down due to corrosion of the alloy metal Fig 1/2
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Penny washers large enough to cover the corroded hole in the heat shield Fig 3
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As I have a spare piece of heat shield I cut out two pieces to go over the holes Fig 4
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I also found out some cushion floor protectors which I used to go next to the alloy and not metal as this is what causes the corrosion they react against each other over time. Fig 5
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Penny washer & cushion protector which is self adhesive Fig 6/7
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put the penny washer with protector above the heat shield, cushion facing down so it is touching the heat shield, then using the cut out piece of heat shield and another smaller washer sandwich them together and bolts back to the body of the car, you will need to use a 20mm long bolts as the old one taken out will not be long enough. Fig 8/9
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Job done i will be cutting out a few of these from the spare piece of heat shield i have and anyone wanting a few plase ask at the next nano, cheers Arctic

Mud Flaps Facelift

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Well it was a fairly nice day weather wise so I managed to fit the mud flaps to the tourer another job out of the way slowly getting there.
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I have added a few small additions to the flap ie a screw and a bolt underneath for more security.
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If you need a little bit more security along the edge also you can use one of the clip which is used for holding on the under tray, I fitted this so that I could show how it can be added should you wish to do so.

Under tray clip
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Bend and snap the inner part off.
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Side view
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Fitted to the mud flap
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Cheers Arctic.