How to - view a car by RRobson (Page 1 of 2)

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RRobson
this is a generic guide, so there may be thing that relate to one car which don't to another :)

when going to view a car, make sure there is plenty of daylight, not just in a building full of lights as this can hide many defects, especially under the car. also, make sure the car is dry, as water will hide many surface imperfections

information and documents
-service history
-tax
-previous MOT's, and look specifically for any advisories
-any receipts and that they coincide with the service history
-make sure it has both keys
-do a HPI check

exterior
-wheels and tyres, tyres aren't bald/damaged and wheels aren't buckled (may need to get under car to check inner rim) and uneven wear
-suspension components, springs aren't broken and car doesn't sit to one side, dampers work effectively (you will need to get under the car to check the springs)
-exhaust, not rusty or about to drop off
-bumpers + doors, all undamaged and gaps are small and consistent, doors open + close as they should, all doors unlock, boot unlocks with key + button (pre facelift) button in car and with fob (facelift)
-paint work, check condition and all panels are the same colour
-bonnet, check it opens properly
-look at all windows for deep scratches / chips
-look under sills for clamp marks which is a tell tale sign of an accident damaged car

engine bay
when inspecting the car, make sure the garage or owner doesn't turn the car on before you get there so you can check fluid levels, and make sure the engine is cold
-fluid levels, oil, coolant, power steering, brake (under panel below windscreen)
-engine mountings
-radiator, check for damage or leak
-coolant staining, any pink / red / orange staining in the engine bay is coolant, may have leaked (on v6, remove the engine cover and look between the vee if possible)
- brake lines, corroded/damaged is an MOT failure
-check for mayo on dipstick or under oil filler cap
-check the plenums where the brake fluid is for water
now you can start the engine
-look for any lights that stay on (a bulb failure will show up now, so of there are no lights on, there are no bulbs out / problems)
-check it starts fine
-listen for any knocking noises/noises that it shouldn't be making
-check the engine runs smoothly
-check it revs freely
-check clutch, make sure bite is in the middle, not at the top of bottom
-check the gearbox, (manual) make sure each gear engages properly and doesn't jump out when the clutch is brought up to the bite in each gear (auto) make sure gear changes are smooth, not snappy or harsh, and make sure each mode can be engaged and that when each specific gear is selected, it changes down appropriately and goes no higher than the selected gear
-check the fan, press the de-mist button and the low speed fan should kick in
-check the engine idles properly, no fluctuation in revs
-make sure when the engine is warm, no coolant is coming out of the cap, could be anything from new cap to new headgasket

interior
-check all seats for wear/damage + feel supportive
-check all dash + steering wheel is clean and undamaged
-check all buttons on dash work as they should
-check all seats adjust properly
-check all mirrors work
-check all windows work
-check that the hand brake holds the car properly (may need to do while driving)
-check the brakes, don't feel spongy
-check the radio works and has a code (if required)

running checks
don't have the radio on at this time so you can listen for noises
-check steering feels ok, no knocks etc. + turn fully lock to lock
-check that the car accelerates properly
-check that the breaks work properly
-drive over bumps to listen for rattles, knocks etc.
-check that the steering wheel is straight when driving straight
-check the car drives straight and not to one side
-when the car is properly warm, or when you get back, turn the car off and restart it, camshaft sensor sometimes stops working when the engine is hot so wont start

anything that you feel needs adding just shout up and it can be added. but remember, it is only generic of which some applies specifically to a 75/ZT but could be used for any car and ensures the it is at least roadworthy, not that it is perfect ;)
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Posted 11 Jun 2010, 11:26 #1 

Last edited by RRobson on 20 Jul 2010, 23:02, edited 5 times in total.


kevin
Make sure the engine in cold before you start it up.

Posted 11 Jun 2010, 18:30 #2 


RRobson
kevin wrote:Make sure the engine in cold before you start it up.


ammended, cheers ;)
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Posted 11 Jun 2010, 19:03 #3 


Mad-Monkey
Good guide. I bought mine without even getting in the car. Just looked at it, and went yes that one please! Didn't even know what engine was in it! I bought from a dealer though not private so would definate need help buying private!

Posted 11 Jun 2010, 19:14 #4 

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takestock
great guide.

HPI check is a must :)
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Dave....

Posted 11 Jun 2010, 19:33 #5 

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Russ
(Trader)
Good guide :D

Bought the Tourer without even road testing it, but that was from a dealer ( who would have got it back sharpish if there'd been anything wrong)

V6 was bought unseen off e-bay and ended up being lots better than I thought it would be.

I was lucky though, there's plenty of poor ones out there if you're not careful.

Russ
Full T4 diagnostics, options enabled and disabled p.m for details

Posted 11 Jun 2010, 20:16 #6 


RRobson
takestock wrote:great guide.

HPI check is a must :)


ooh yeah, forgot that one :D now added

i am one of the unlucky ones, having little knowlage of the 75 at the time, i looked at it, drove it, though this is great and bought it, only to find out a day later the HG had gone, and diagnose a rattle on the off side wheel to be a broken spring, and one of the alloys was buckeled. so there were a fer problems, but the price reflected some of them :)
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Posted 11 Jun 2010, 21:24 #7 

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Rammie
:iagree: That's an excellent piece of work, young man.

Maybe worth adding to check it comes with 2 keys, as this can be a fairly expensive exercise if there is only one and something happens to it. :thumbsup:
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Brian

Posted 11 Jun 2010, 21:35 #8 

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JohnDotCom
Always best to view a car in Daylight of course,
and not when its raining or wet, it can hide away any damage/marks on bodywork.
John

"My lovely car now sold onto a very happy new owner.
I still love this marque and I will still be around, preferred selling to breaking, as a great runner and performer"

Posted 11 Jun 2010, 21:40 #9 


RRobson
JohnDotCom wrote:Always best to view a car in Daylight of course,
and not when its raining or wet, it can hide away any damage/marks on bodywork.


i thought view it in daylight was a bit if a no brainer :mrgreen: but very good point about vieving in the wet, so may it be added.

this list is loads better than the one on the other forum, some numpty moved it into the how to section so no amendments can be made :D
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Posted 11 Jun 2010, 21:52 #10 

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SpongeBob
RRobson wrote:this list is loads better than the one on the other forum, some numpty moved it into the how to section so no amendments can be made :D


Are you saying you can't edit your first post to make the amendments? If you can't then please let me know.

Posted 11 Jun 2010, 21:59 #11 

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JohnDotCom
No young Sir over next door, I believe. ;)
John

"My lovely car now sold onto a very happy new owner.
I still love this marque and I will still be around, preferred selling to breaking, as a great runner and performer"

Posted 11 Jun 2010, 21:59 #12 

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SpongeBob
JohnDotCom wrote:No young Sir over next door, I believe. ;)


Doh! Of course, yes! :gmc: :em:

Posted 11 Jun 2010, 22:04 #13 


RRobson
JohnDotCom wrote:No young Sir over next door, I believe. ;)

quite right, this one has been edited by myself a couple of times now ;)

but thanks for the comments everyone, hopefully a couple of people will draw upon this and avoid a couple of sheds that are a few quid less :)
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Posted 11 Jun 2010, 22:05 #14 

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James.uk
Hmmm. If I ever want to buy another car, I'm gonna hire rrobson to get one for me.. simples.. :lol: :D :D
...

Posted 11 Jun 2010, 23:33 #15 


RRobson
James.uk wrote:Hmmm. If I ever want to buy another car, I'm gonna hire rrobson to get one for me.. simples.. :lol: :D :D
...


of course james, anything for a fellow member ;)
Tools available to local members

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Posted 12 Jun 2010, 09:26 #16 


kevin
RRobson wrote:
JohnDotCom wrote:Always best to view a car in Daylight of course,
and not when its raining or wet, it can hide away any damage/marks on bodywork.


i thought view it in daylight was a bit if a no brainer :mrgreen: but very good point about vieving in the wet, so may it be added.

this list is loads better than the one on the other forum, some numpty moved it into the how to section so no amendments can be made :D


Was that numpty one of there old mods. :lol: :gmc:

Posted 12 Jun 2010, 14:37 #17 

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1gp
another good one to check is " look on the sills the bottom lip , if its been on a jig in a bodyshop , you will see clamping marks on the bottom lips".

Posted 12 Jun 2010, 20:11 #18 

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takestock
RRobson wrote:
James.uk wrote:Hmmm. If I ever want to buy another car, I'm gonna hire rrobson to get one for me.. simples.. :lol: :D :D
...


of course james, anything for a fellow member ;)


Wot even now you've met him :D. No point Reece your not in the will :gmc:
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Dave....

Posted 12 Jun 2010, 20:37 #19 

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MrB
A great list and something certainly to print off and perhaps take with you.

Wish I had yesterday....
See my post in M47 section, which I'm sure is not complete, yet.

Chris
Chris
Member No. 143
Mods so far: LED sidelights, interior lights and number plate lamps, Rover Xenon Headlights, Kenlowe Fan, Synergy 2 and EGR Bypass

Posted 13 Jun 2010, 07:24 #20 


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