75ZT Community

I have been having issues with my 2.0 diesel tourer for about 10 months now if i really think back not extra special MPG always feeling slugish but the power was there if i booted it just that nice smootness missing in the low revs and speeds, oh and the heart pulsating feeling of pulling out from junctions and roundabouts it is only over the last 5-7 weeks that the car as been surging ie losing power as though it was going to stop cut out only to kick forward if i pressed the gas pedal a bit more crusing at say 30/50/70 you would still get the stoping dead feeling then surge forward. Asked on the forums and read up abit about this and was given the answer its the Maf so at our recent nano meet on the 11th March i was given the chance to get her on a T4 (Testbook version 4.Computer Diagnostic System) session with Duncan to chack out any faults and sure enough the maf was reading wrong unpluged it at the nano took her for a drive seemed to pick up and feel better, so new maf needed purchased one from eurocarparts (not cheap but a must have )below is how i fitted the maf and the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve) filter at the same time enjoy Arctic.

Fig one remove the engine cover three bolts 8mm
1

Fig two once bolts out remove the engine cover and put in a safe place for re-fitting at end of the job
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Fig Three & four remove the two screws holding the air intake pipe
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4

Fig Five & six pull air intake pipe from the air filter cover this is easy as the concertina ridges will allow this
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6

Fig seven/eight/nine/ten shows the allen bolts which secures the air filter cover which needs to be removed to change the maf and also the PCV filter there are five.

rear right corner looking at it from front of engine
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rear left and back by the maf
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three at the front of the cover
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these bolts are catched so you can not lose them
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Fig eleven remove oil filler cap
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Fig twelve you can now remove the air filter cover and put it safe with the engine cover removed earlier.
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Fig thirteen you now have access to the air filter PCV filter housing and the maf sensor, refit the oil filler cap to stop anything falling into the engine
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Fig fourteen the maf sensor plug and casing
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Fig fifteen/sixteen unplug the maf sensor wire press in both sides and pull up.
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Fig seventeen/eighteen release the two retaining clips and disconnect from the turbocharger duct which hold it to the maf housing
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Fig nineteen remove the air filter from its housing.
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Fig twenty/twenty one pull and remove the turbocharger duct from the maf housing and from turbo charger below all push fix and thread out carefully
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fig twenty two/three/four/five slacken and remove the two torx screws top right and bottom left

top right torx
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use long nose pliers to grip the torx screws as it nears the end coming out so not to lose it in engine below.
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bottom left torx
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Fig twenty six with torx screws removed you can now also remove the maf with its housing.
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Fig twenty seven mine looks to have been removed before either to clean it or be changed but not in my ownership.
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Fig twenty eight/nine old and new side by side
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Fig thirty new maf sensor fitted
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Fig thirty one refit the turbocharger duct and hose easiest way to do this is remove the hose from the duct
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Fig thirty two hose removed from the duct so it can be lowered down and on to the turbo charger it is a push fixing
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Fig thirty three shows the two fixing points for the duct hose
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Fig thirty four hose re-fitted also push fix
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Fig Thirty five plug the wiring back on to the maf sensor
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The maf sensor is now fitted and refitting of the air filter and engine cover etc is the reverse of removal unless like me you are going to change the PCV filter at the same time this is shown in the next post section, Arctic.

Carring on from the fitting of the maf sensor i decided to change the PCV filter at the same time even tough i only changed it 8-10months ago at only £9.99 its worth it in my eyes anyway so here goes.

To replace the PCV with out removing the fuel line and clips first unscrew the three retaing screws then disconnect the injector wiring plugs and move the harness to one side follow the pics below.

Fig one remove the three screws 5mm socket worked for me on the star screws.
1

Fig two screws removed from there fixings
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Fig three unplug the injector wiring harness four plus squeeze and pull
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Fig four set harness to one side out of the way
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Fig five/six unscrew the four allen screws so you can remove the PCV filter valve housing
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Fig seven remove the filter housing by lifting and twisting toward you or the front of the car carefully no rush it should come away nicely without having to unclip any fuel return hoses thus not braking those little T junctions
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Fig eight clean and check the rubber gaskets seals or change for new ones.
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Fig nine old and new filter this is only 8-10months old still soft a wet not hard so in theory did not need changng but hey why not.
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Fig ten clean inside the valve fit new rubber O ring
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Fig eleven fit new filter push home over the O ring and pushdown the plastic holder
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Fig twelve refit the PCV valve by tilting reverse of removal carefully again no rush making sure not to disturb the fuel return hoses.
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Fig thirteen refit the four allen screws corners first then the rear and front
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Fig fourteen replace or fit new air filter again i fitted new one even though it did not need it why not i am fussy.
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Fig fifthteen refit the air filter cover starting at the right rear corner this can be fiddly once started do not screw home as the others have to be lined up.
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Fig sixteen fit the others there are five remeber two at the back corners and three at the front top.
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Fig seventeen refit air intake pipe push fit
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Fig eighteen refit two screws holding the air intake pipe housing
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Fig nineteen/twenty refit the engine cover three bolts tidy up your tools wash hands take the car for a nice drive check out the smoothness and new power
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Jobs a good one happy motoring again

Nice little "How To" there mate, I am doing mine this afternoon, along with an Oil change and Air filter. Jut sspent a fortune on some new tools as well, so hoping all goes smoothly

HI Carl
Hope the oil change and air filter went ok donr forget if you ever need any help gives a shout Arctic.

Arctic wrote:HI Carl
Hope the oil change and air filter went ok donr forget if you ever need any help gives a shout Arctic.

I may call upon you for that Fan change when I order one from Jules - Not looking forward to it to be honest :p Especially after the palava I went through yesterday with the Headlights

Had the dreaded, nothing until 2,000 rpm, then everything all at once, on my ZT CDi. All evidence pointing to faulty MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor), decided I had nothing to lose by trying to clean it. Simply removed air filter element and sprayed Servisol Switch clean into to the MAF from the air filter box. Waited 5 mins, refitted air filter element, started up and ran for a few mins, blipping the throttle to suck residue away, repeated procedure for good measure, and took for test drive. Wow! Like a new car, smooth power delivery throughout the rev range. SwitchClean is only £4 a can, a new MAF is around £150.

It would seem, that contrary to what many maintain, it's not the electronic components in the MAF that break down, it's just a dirty sensor wire/strip.

Hi Pete.
It works for some and luck is on your side by coincidence have a guess what I was doing a few days ago with a couple I had in the shed yet to test them, i took the centre out of mine and sprayed them and fitted new securing screws at the same time. Arctic