75ZT Community

What is the definitive list of parts for a clutch overhaul?

I am thinking:
Clutch plates
Clutch thrust bearing
Master cylinder
Slave cylinder

But, is there anything else?

And... what is the best combination of parts to use? ie. Landrover master cylinder? One of tose clutch kits guaranteed for life? Any suggestions?

Ta!

Would strive to get a genuine LR part if poss. Having looked recently,
Armstrong Massey (a genuine dealer) had them on their e-bay shop?

The only real answer to clutch problems is an auto gearbox innit Zeb?..
...

Well, depends how far you want to go.

Full monty is:
Clutch slave cylinder, includes the release bearing.
Clutch master cylinder.
Clutch friction plate.
Clutch cover.
Dual Mass Flywheel. (The most expensive bit by far).
Gearbox input shaft oil seal (and maybe an O ring).
Crankshaft rear oil seal.
Flywheel bolts if you change it as they are patch bolts.
Can't remember if any other bolts are patch bolts, for example the ones that hold the oil seals on, or the clutch cover on.

Going from memory when I did mine, so may have missed something but don't think so.

Zeb

Neither a friend of the family, who was a Rover trained mechanic, nor Andy Willi have ever known a Dual Mass Flywheel to be out of spec.

I would go for a good quality Master Cylinder, Concentric Slave Cylinder and Clutch Kit.

The company I got mine from said they were LUK but they weren't, so I wouldn't recommend them to you.

However, LRDirect supply genuine LR stuff at very reasonable prices, you might want to try them. You'll need the part numbers though to search their site.

Not sure on the DMF.

When I did my clutch a couple of years ago, there were a couple of stories over on the owners club of 75 DMFs failing. I do know of DMF's failing on other brands, and in some cases causing other problems to gearbox casings for example.

As I didn't want to do the job twice, I chose to replace it and all the bits. Yes it cost a bomb, but should laster another 100k.

Saying that, the DMF did seem in perfect shape, and if I'd had the opportunity to inspect it before ordering the parts, I might have decided not do do it.

The same is true of the oil seals. No leaks after 100k miles, but would they last another 100k?

Indeed, will the car ever do another 100k?

I have seen a DMF fail on a pal's 190. Didnt know about it until the clutch was removed. I've only seen one other clutch removed on a 75 and the flywheel was OK on that. So, for me, that's 50% failure.

He has been dead unlucky with his car lately suffering HGF (Head Gasket Failure) shortly after having the cambelts done, both master and slave clutch cylinders, DMF and his Hi-line is still out of action. He does have heat again after unblocking the matrix.

Clutch wise we'd suggest either a Sachs, LUK or Borg and Beck - I know these are the makes used in my Dads line of work.

With regards to the DMF I didn't change mine when having the clutch done on my 160V6 and paid the price 3months down the line losts of vibration on start off and lo had to have it replaced much expense so in my opinion replace all together sorry.

Martin

RE above give me a ring might just have the answer...........been doing some homework

Cheers Martin...t'is good to talk.....will keep yer boys in mind...

Thanks to all else too for some useful pointers...

Got most of my bits from E Car parts in Sandy. They have a fleabay shop, but you can also contact them if they aren't listing what you need. I think I had to get the friction plate from Rimmers though. Just a stock issue.

The original DMF I took off was Luk, so I'm assuming the whole clutch was.