75ZT Community

Duncan · Posted 04 Jul 2010, 08:19 #21

If you had white on the brakes, theres a good chance that replacing it with the black will be the fix.

If you do need ZCS codes, then you might be able to get them calculated, if you can find someone local with a testbook to program them. It has been done before.

Tazman3 · Posted 04 Jul 2010, 10:05 #22

i have the black brake switch now...it arrived yesterday however the weather is really rainy here at the moment so it might be a few days before i attempt it...lol

Thanks for all your help Duncan

Martin

Tazman3 · Posted 05 Jul 2010, 20:07 #23

been out and fitted the black brake switch i have....no difference.

what next?

As the Ecu and interface were second hand im not sure they work any ideas on testing them?

i get the green light on the dash switch and thats it. i try to push set when over 25miles an hour but nothing.

Martin

greeners · Posted 05 Jul 2010, 20:49 #24

Check for vacuum leaks, and I think there is 2 fuses, one is a 10A the other a 5A.

Also check that the clutch switch is correctly fitted, and that the brake switch has been changed for a twin pole one....

Tazman3 · Posted 05 Jul 2010, 21:49 #25

yep dave the black brake switch i fitted tonight was a twin pole one off a cruise 75 although i must admit the white one i took out looked the same...lol.

will check the fuses.
and for vacuum leaks cheers..

Martin

Duncan · Posted 06 Jul 2010, 12:25 #26

This could start to get tricky, as you need to check each of the signals into the interface and unit.

If I get time tonight (I'm packing for a trip to Germany, and have to finish some grouting) I'll get some pin numbers / wire colours for some checks.

Tazman3 · Posted 06 Jul 2010, 18:12 #27

Thanks Duncan, but it can wait till after your Germany trip mate....i have the ultrasonic sensor to fit in the mean time...

Martin

Duncan · Posted 06 Jul 2010, 18:27 #28

A starter check to be getting on with.

With ignition on, and everything still connected, check the voltages on the interface unit:

pin 11 (clutch) should be 12v going down to 0v when you press the clutch.

pin 4 (brakes) should be 12v going to 0v when you press the brakes.

pin 6 (brake check) should be 0v going to 12v when you press the switch.

I think I have these the right way round, but the most important thing is do they change when you press the pedals? If not your adjustment isn't right, the switches are faulty, or the power feed to the switches may be missing.

Tazman3 · Posted 06 Jul 2010, 20:30 #29

Cheers Duncan i will get a look at these tomorrow hopefully...

Martin

James.uk · Posted 10 Jul 2010, 11:20 #30

I am doing the same thing, but on a CDTi auto.

I know how to remove the glove box to fit the cruise ECU (Engine Control Unit), but how do I get the CD muti changer out? It's in my way! :mad1:

My ECU hasn't arrived yet, Xpart say it should be here by the end of next week!!

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Tazman3 · Posted 13 Jul 2010, 10:10 #31

its held in by three bolts...or two cant remember from underneath the glove box. the studs go through the glovebox and the nuts can be accessed from below.

Martin

James.uk · Posted 13 Jul 2010, 11:51 #32

Cheers Martin. :thumbsup:

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Cruise retrofit by Tazman3 (Page 2 of 2)