75ZT Community

Hi I am fitting new brake pads later today possibly about 11.00am any good info i should know if so please pass it on first time i have tried to fit my own brake pads, have been informed that the caliper piston winds back so not to push it back with a flat bar etc,

Do i need to open the bleed nuts /will i need to take off the brake filler cap and leave to rest there, well of to have a search now on the site for answers. cheers Arctic.

Caliper is a push back, the advice given is to open the bleed screw on the caliper and push the caliper back allowing the fluid to exit via the bleed screw, topping up and bleeding later. I changed mine before reading that and just slowly pushed the piston back. I had no problems doing this but some have said it could upset the master cyl

You could do worse than looking in the Know How Guide Database. Took a lot of work to make these available. viewforum.php?f=62

Hi Mick yes found them last night but just to make sure does the bleed bottle have to have brake fluid in it as this is my first time i have heard that this can up set the ABS (Antilock Braking System) and then you would need aT4 to bleed them ?

Well will pop back ever now then to find out and look at the diagrams wish me luck Arctic

T4 (Testbook version 4.Computer Diagnostic System) not needed for brake service.
Bleed bottle should have some fluid in to start and the tube submerged if bleeding brakes, (to track air bubbles), not necessary when just allowing excess fluid out when depressing pistons. That's the way I was taught to do it.

Well finaly got round to doing the front brake pads and my what a nightmare first when trying to take the drivers side wheel of one of the wheels nuts had been rounded a bit so had to wait for my son to bring over the extended wrench bar, so while waiting i decide to do the nearside brake pads first.

Wheel off ok got my tools by me 7mm Allen key ( photo 1) along with a smaller 7mm allen key for easier turning, bleed bottle made from a coffee jar and clear tube ( photo 2&3 ) jar as 250ml of clean dot 4 brake fluid in it, hammer to tap off caliper, 9mm spanner for bleed screw, small screw driver to help remove the anti-rattle spring, wire to tie up the caliper while removing the old pads great what can go wrong off we go.

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First of all set up the jar ready for bleed nut so no stretching when i need it, right ready brake disc and pads infront of me sitting comfy on padded seat ( photo 4) remove 2 caps from guide pin covers (photo 5) to revel guide pins top & bottom. ( photos 6&7 ) (photo 8 ) caps put to one side safely to insert back later.

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loosen & remove guide pins with 7mm allen key carefully as not to wrap your knuckles as i did because the pins are tight then just give, (photos 9&10 ) you are ready to remove the calipers in a bit.

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Now the pins are loose and ready to be removed tie up the caliper with the wire or string which ever you have ready by you, (photo 11) also connect bleed hose to the bleed screw (photos 12&13) you can now take out the pins as the wire as the weight of the caliper., remove the anti-rattle spring then very lightly tap back the caliper use rubber hammer if you have one much better less likely to cause any damage. (photos 14&15 )

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Once the caliper is removed you can then pull up the wire or string and tie off, now you can loosen the bleed screw press back the caliper piston into it's housing and then tighten the bled screw to 5Nm disconnect bleed hose and remove with jar to one side secure cap to bleed screw. Fit brake pads position caliper housing to carrier and align fit gide pins and tighten them up to 28Nm but remember you are screwing into alloy, so be carefull fit cap to guide pin dust covers, fit anti-reattle spring clip to caliper housing depress brake pedal to seat the new pads. Check and top up fluid rservoir if need be jobs done. ( Or is it )

My brakes feel very spongy now maybe they just need beding in or as any air got into them i mean look how carefull i was i did read somehwhere that once desturbed you need a T4 to make sure the ABS is ok am i wrong in this took the car for a 15 mile drive still feel spongy pedal travling low to floor pan ?
Arctic.

Right once i had done the near side brake pads successfully so i thought anyway ( ) turned out spongy as you may have read from my previous post.

My son finaly turned up with the wrench bar and my lovely little granddaughter whom i worship but today is not the day i need the little one running about with tools and the like lying around so after an hour i managed to get back to the job in hand the off side brake pads (RH side ) wheel off go to disconnect the pad wear sensor multiplug what do i find ( photo 1 ) below.

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Now the nightmare beings i look under the wheel arch and what do i find bare wires ( photo 2) now i am no einstein but this as to be the wires to the brake senor surely ( could this be why my ABS light comes on for a few seconds on start up then goes out) from there on it gets worse as the bleed screw is also stuck fast and rusted under the cap (photo 3)

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No dust caps on the guide pin covers on this side takes me about another hour to get the bleed screw loose now i can get on, mind i still have not put in the beef for dinner yet or done any veg it,s now 3.45pm started at 11.00am all that apart finaly got wheels back on but as i say brakes feel spongy and i now have to get sensor multiplug does this have anything to do with the ABS any help is most appreciated.

I still have the back to do yet and does that not entail the hand brake
Arctic.

Something not right with this method as my brakes are now spongy, after one push with engine not running very stiff once engine started pedal very soft and goes very low to floor.

You'll need to pump the pedal several times to re-set the system, as it were. Or have you already done that?

SpongeBob wrote:You'll need to pump the pedal several times to re-set the system, as it were. Or have you already done that?

HI Spongebob yes already done that and have taken it on a 15miles drive still spongy

According to my car mechanic, he always, with engine running pumps the brakes until pedal is hard and then holds it down for about 20 seconds, immediately after completing installation.
I am presuming that as you dissipated fluid via the bleed screw that you continually checked and topped up the reservoir and didn't accidentally introduce any air into the system. If you are not completely sure then bleed the brakes, you will need a second person operating the brake pedal to do this successfully.

Hi Mick yes i continually checked and topped up the reservoir and didn't accidentally introduce any air into the system i even made sure after the job that the fluid as up to the correct line. not under and not above, just been out again and they seem to be stopping ok it just feels different than before i have decided to purchase new front & rear discs and fit them this wek end coming even though i have just brought new pads in the mean time i will fit the back pads and then check around all again.

I just cannot see what if anything i have done wrong. Arctic.

It's possible for the system to suck a small bubble of air back in to the top of the caliper. It may help to get an assistant to pump the pedal. You open the bleedscrew on the downstroke, and nip it off before the pedal returns.

An alternative is an easybleed system. That pushes fluid into the master cylinder, so simply opening the bleedscrew allows the fluid and air to be pushed out.

HI Duncan.
Yes will have to get my other half to help me push the pedal but think i will do tis after fitting the back brake pads, will this make any difference to the hand brake will this need adjusting once the back pads have been chaned. any help is as always appreciated. Arctic.

Handbrake operates shoes within the rear drum, not affected when replacing pads.

HI Mick.
Are we allowed to add a link from the other site i am a member of also about brakes by Big Russ or is it not allowed or will it be

Mick wrote:Handbrake operates shoes within the rear drum, not affected when replacing pads.

So do i have shoes as well as pads on the back of my tourer i must own up i have never heard of this Arctic.

Arctic wrote:

Mick wrote:Handbrake operates shoes within the rear drum, not affected when replacing pads.

So do i have shoes as well as pads on the back of my tourer i must own up i have never heard of this Arctic.

That's the setup. Handbrake cable operates the shoes. I'll find some info for you in a mo'

The silver colour barrel at the top is the handbrake adjuster.

Hi Mick thanks for that so i have to take off the disc to get to the hand brake adjuster on both wheels this i will need to do as my hand brake is on about the sixth notch more work am i No am i yes but with the good members of this site i will overcome