75ZT Community

Hi member's / owners thought it would be good to have a thread solely for our car batteries, ie size, Capacity (C20), CCA (EN), and so on.


below is a link which you can obtain your correct battery for your car, others may also like to add their link form which they found a good place to get a battery from.

https://www.tayna.co.uk/

You can add your reg to find the battery you need, or find by maker.

I note for the diesel owners it's best to have a 096 battery
https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/e44/

I have the above fitted to my diesel tourer.

My Freelander 2 diesel i have this one below.
https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/yuasa/ybx5110/

Please add any tips on how to keep your battery in good condition, any tips on how to help make it last longer.

https://www.tayna.co.uk/tutorials/change-car-battery-without-losing-radio-code

https://www.tayna.co.uk/tutorials/how-to-choose-a-car-battery


Always disconnect the cable from the negative connector first, before proceeding with the positive one. Reconnect in reverse order.

I have noted that a few members have complained of their battery clamps not holding tight onto the battery positive & negative posts, therefore i hope this little how to will help to rectify that problem for them.

Remove both clamps from the battery using a 13mm ring spanner, once you have them both removed undo both nuts fully without removing.
Now you have the clamps removed and the nuts fully undone, open the clamp ends with a screwdriver as in Fig 1/2

Positive
1

Negative.
2

Make sure you have opened the clamp fully Fig 3/4
3

4

With the clamps open you can now refit the clamp to the battery post pushing the clamp fully down to the bottom of the tapered post, tighten the nut up with your fingers only at this stage. Fig 5/6
5

6

Now that the clamps have been hand/finger tightened you can proceed to nip them tighter with the 13mm ring spanner slowly until you feel the nut go tight, stop there do not carry on tightening the nut if you do all you will do is make the clamp become loose. Fig 7/8
7

8

These clamps do not need to be tightened by the Hulk, this should sort out those clamps that are loose, do a visual and finger check maybe once a month if you so wish but they should not come loose cheers Arctic.

How to [url="https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=239568"]here[/url]...

Disclaimer:
You are responsible for any work or modifications carried out on your car and you undertake any such work at your own risk.
The 75 and ZT Owners Club nor the original author of this How-To can be held liable for anything that may happen as a result of you following this How-To.

https://batteryworld.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/battery-test-car



Always disconnect the cable from the negative connector first, before proceeding with the positive one. Reconnect in reverse order.

I am sure most of us at one time or another have had to remove our battery from the car, either the battery as passed it's best or as gone flat due to lack of use.

What ever the reason if your car is not a PPD, then you will most certainly have the little 13mm bolt adjoined to the battery securing strap, I have found and most likely have other owners that you need a long bar with 13mm socket to remove the said strap and bolt.

Removing the bolt is not to bad, but when you have to refit the bolt/strap it can be a bit awkward to get it into position as you can not see the receiving thread due to the clamp.

Every now and again the PPD long bolts may crop up on ebay or someone selling one on here £10.00 plus P&P or more sometimes.

Therefore hopefully this little mod below will help those whom wish to have a long bolt rather than the small battery securing bolt.

Here you go, some members may have a long bolts already if like me you throw nothing away especially nuts and bolts.

First get your self an 8mm bolt part threaded and nut minimum length 100mm/ 10cm link here below, up to 140mm.
[url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-A2-STAINLESS-PART-THREADED-HEX-HEAD-BOLTS-NYLOC-NUT-WASHERS-HEXAGON-931/121886745333?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=420877831878&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-A2-STAI...19.m1438.l2649[/url]

Remove the bolt strap from the car Fig 1
1

Remove the retaining washer with out breaking if possible as it could be reused but do not worry if it breaks as mine did, as we will use a plastic retainer to hold the clamp later.
2

Have your bolt ready and cut your self a small plastic disc from a butter lid or a top off a packet of Pringles after you have eaten them (Sour Cream) ones for me.
3

Pierce an hole in the plastic disc about 6mm then pass the 8mm bolt through the hole Fig 4
4

Next add you nut to the bolt in reverse as here in Fig 5
5

You now pass the new long bolt through the strap and battery clamp and add the plastic disc to retain them together Fig 6

6

With this battery long bolt mod you are new ready to lower the bolt/strap back into the battery container and fix it tight Fig 7
7

Hopefully this will be useful to some members.
8

9

10

As stated above I already had the bolts in one of my many tins of nut and bolts, but you can purchase from ebay /screw fix etc, you can use up to 160mm in length but mine were 100mm, but 140mm seems a good length have just checked on my car.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-A2-STAINLESS-PART-THREADED-HEX-HEAD-BOLTS-NYLOC-NUT-WASHERS-HEXAGON-931/121886745333?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=420877831878&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

A quick chart showing reading for the condition of the battery.

1

Remember if you have any good tips or know of any good ideas for battery life saving tips add them to this thread.

Thanks, Steve, as always a good guide.
Just a reminder to avoid an accidental short circuit: Always disconnect the cable from the negative connector first, before proceeding with the positive one. Reconnect in reverse order.