75ZT Community

Once had a Wolseley 18/85 (lovely car) and there was a clunk going in to reverse. The problem was a cracked mounting on the servo.

Rover418275 wrote:Gearbox plug?

The harness that goes to the auto box can be disconnected at the round plug on the passenger wing ( twist and pull IIRC). Using a multimeter at this plug you can check the resistance across the various solenoids to see if they have failed.

Horners in Swinton have just quoted me £270 to replace the 2/4 brake duty solenoid, and that is with me supplying the solenoid.......

Rover418275 wrote:Horners in Swinton have just quoted me £270 to replace the 2/4 brake duty solenoid, and that is with me supplying the solenoid.......

Depends how much work is involved whether it is good value.

Presumably drain fluid remove covers (how difficult?) and reassemble

takestock wrote:

Rover418275 wrote:Gearbox plug?

The harness that goes to the auto box can be disconnected at the round plug on the passenger wing ( twist and pull IIRC). Using a multimeter at this plug you can check the resistance across the various solenoids to see if they have failed.

OK so I have a multimeter, so how do I test the solenoids? I have never used a multimeter before !

Cheers

Mike

PaulT wrote:

Rover418275 wrote:Horners in Swinton have just quoted me £270 to replace the 2/4 brake duty solenoid, and that is with me supplying the solenoid.......

Depends how much work is involved whether it is good value.

Presumably drain fluid remove covers (how difficult?) and reassemble

Solenoids are behind the black front cover of the auto box. No draining of the oil is reqd

Thats a pure rip off price

Rover418275 wrote:

takestock wrote:

Rover418275 wrote:Gearbox plug?

The harness that goes to the auto box can be disconnected at the round plug on the passenger wing ( twist and pull IIRC). Using a multimeter at this plug you can check the resistance across the various solenoids to see if they have failed.



OK so I have a multimeter, so how do I test the solenoids? I have never used a multimeter before !

Cheers

Mike

Set your multi meter to Ohms and stick the leads on the pins in the plug and look at the read out
for example
Put one lead on pin 16 and the other on pin 18 and the multimeter should read between 2.6 and 3.2 ohms. if not then that solenoid is faulty.

When the new solenoid arrives try your multimeter (set to ohms) across the two connectors on the solenoid and observe the reading just so you know you are doing it right

takestock wrote:

PaulT wrote:

Rover418275 wrote:Horners in Swinton have just quoted me £270 to replace the 2/4 brake duty solenoid, and that is with me supplying the solenoid.......

Depends how much work is involved whether it is good value.

Presumably drain fluid remove covers (how difficult?) and reassemble

Solenoids are behind the black front cover of the auto box. No draining of the oil is reqd

Thats a pure rip off price

In that case yes a rip off.

good to know that the boxes do not require major spannering to change the solenoids.

There are 2 round connectors on the passenger wing, both are for the autobox, but my question is, is which one is the one for checking the solenoids? They next to each other, one to the front and one to the rear.

The new solenoid has arrived, but there is only connection, have put the red probe on this and the black probe all over the solenoid but don't get a reading Solved checked the multimeter battery, it was still wrapped in plastic.....well I did say I haven't used it before.

New solenoid is reading 3.2 ohms

The round connector is on the gearbox itself. The two you mention are just interconnects.

Duncan wrote:The round connector is on the gearbox itself. The two you mention are just interconnects.

Where do I access these from Duncan?

right, It is definately the front connector of the two on the wing.


(Stolen post)


The connector was staring me in the face and is between the battery box and the wing. The nearest connector to the front of the car just unscrews and the 18 pins are revealed.
Test as per diagram (same connector and wiring as freelander)
and record the readings.

On mine the only solenoid to be wrong was the 2-4 brake duty solenoid
which had no reading so was open circiut.

I took out the 2 bolts that hold the two bottom solenoids in and both solenoids came out with no problem.
The upper of the 2 was the faulty one and confirmed open circuit when out.
I have managed to prise the end of the solenoid off and the fault became obvious in that the earth track to the case had broken.
This was under a piece of plastic which I then went on to break trying to get it off.
After a useless attempt to resolder in which I burnt the plastic and got solder where it shouldnt go, I put it back together and obtained the correct reading.

I am now going to put back in the gearbox and refil with the lost atf and test.

However, even if it works, I have damaged the solenoid to the point where I have no confidence in its reliability.

So I decided to visit the local Land Rover dealer to see if they could obtain a new one.
To my surprise they can order them, but their diagram does not match mine and I have ended up ordering 2 different solenoids and they will send back the wrong one. I will pick it up Sat am.

I was also surprised at the price of either £35 plus vat or £27 plus vat depending on which one is right. I was expecting a lot more.

The ones on the wing might carry some autobox signals, but they are not just for the autobox. Otherwise my V6 manual is a very confused beast.

There is a round connector on the box itself isn't there?

EDIT:
the workshop manual shows C0243 on top of the autobox by the starter motor, not one of the ones by the wing

Apologies. The workshop manual is showing soime things incorrectly. It shows both the two connectors on the wing as 10 way, and unrelated to the autobox. However on my auto car the front one is the 18 way just as described. The manual has two ten ways as the manual shows.

What's worse, the manual shows a photo of the connector in question on top of the box, under the battery.

Not sure how reliable my multimeter is but the only connections not to register were that of 16 & 18, 2/4 brake duty solenoid, dial on meter did not even twitch. The 2 pins for the temperature did not seem to register either.

Temp one may not register in this weather If however you have the correct readings from all the other pins but not from 18 and 16 then that shows the 2/4 sol is fubard, looks like you may be onto something . I am told that when you remove the black cover below the airbox you may loose around 1/2 ltr of gbox oil.

I am now on a mission to acquire a couple of wheel ramps and a litre of Texaco 402 and swop over the failed solenoid. Weather forecast looks good for working on a car outside.

Have purchased a set of wheel ramps, have the foillowing questions:

1. Should I disconnect the battery before starting the work?

2. Will the cover plate require any form of liquid gasket when it is replaced?

3. If yes to question 2, which one/type do people recommend?

Thanks

Mike

PaulT suggests that a suitable piece of test equipment could be designed and built and available to community members, much as the VIS (Variable Intake System) motor tester is.

Seems like a relatively simple task to make a tester up, as far as I can see

Paul, you have lost me here.... Mind you that is not surprising for someone who goes to use a multimeter with the battery still wrapped in cellophane

Ah have got you now, you mean a tester to check out the solenoids?