75ZT Community

Well my 75 has bitten the dust.

After having had a recent oil leak fixed by a local firm i discovered on a long journey over the Christmas break that the oil leak wasn't as fixed as was thought. Despite nursing the car home with frequent oil top ups the engine was in a rather noisy state upon reaching home.

A different mechanic(who came recommended) has had a good look and advised that whilst there may well be an oil leak on the rear cam seals(gearbox end) that its very likely there is bottom end damage(going by sound).

So i'm left in that unenviable position that so many V6 owners seem to find themselves in, find a replacement engine or scrap an otherwise mint condition car.

So can i ask for some general advice, what sort of money would i be looking at for a replacement engine? are there any reliable sources for 2.5 V6s ? Or if i go the route of scrapping the car would any members be interested in it for a rebuild or for parts?

Ho hum, lets hope 2013 improves

Cheers,

John

Try here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-ZT-ROVER-7 ... 337ee95324

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/mg-zt-rover-7 ... 35c2d5a284

Personally I'd go the fix it route, but that's me.

Have a chat with John at MG Breaker in Peterborough, 01733 260349

I have an engine that has a little end gone, BUT the bottom end is effectively brand new
Take a look here and you will see the details, http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s ... p?t=131494 its from an Auto car as well... You could take all the new bits out and replace the parts in yours? I could also strip the parts out you require and send just those bits over if you wanted.. You do not want to see the bill I had for all the work!! lol... Its only done 6 miles on the new parts, thats when I realised I had not fixed the right parts!!! Arghhh!!!! lol

Let me know if its of any interest to you...

Pete

Well its been a long while, but the car is semi back on the road! A local mechanic has dropped in a replacement low milage V6, new cam belts, thermostat, pump and belts, oil, water and so on.

But, the car seems to only run for 30minutes and then (according to mech) the engine stops dead.
I'll post this into the V6 section and see if anyone has any ideas.

John

Is it an automatic?

Hi, yes it is an auto.

I should add some background to this. The original 2003 engine failed with a suspected oil leak from a cam seal, bottom end lost oil. So a low mileage engine was sourced from Rover Breakers(iirc) and was swapped in, i think the replacement engine may be from 2000-2003, it had different injector rails and coils, so some swapping of parts took place. I'm told the engine runs smoothly but cuts out after 20-30minutes.

It doesnt appear to be pump related, i had the orange clip fitted years ago. I doubt its the crank sensor, i think the mechanic said he changed it anyway. So i do wonder if it might be fuel pressure issue, or even the ECU (Engine Control Unit) playing up. Hard for me to tell.

Anyway, any advice is more than welcome and gladly received

Cheers,

John

I seem to remember there being a recall on very early V6 engines, but hopefully someone will know for sure.

It was to do with the spacing of the crank sensor. On a few cars the engine could just die. I think as the whole thing got hot, expansion of the casting that the sensor is mounted in, moved the sensor too far away from the flywheel teeth to work properly. A weak crank sensor would do something similar.

Certainly, heat affects the sensors themselves. They rely on magnetism to work and the heat reduces the magnetism. When the magnet has weakened over the years, the heat can push them over the edge. That's why so many V6s suffer from hot start problems as the Cam sensor doesn't work when hot.

Hi,

Google throws up that Rover Recall A076 was the crankshaft position sensor.

Vosa highlghts that the recall affected Vehicle IDs RJ 001242 to RJ 127623.

Do these IDs relate to the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number)? (I could get the mechanic to check the engine number?)

I think those are the last 6 digits if the VIN Number. Definitely not engine nos.

Yes, they looks like VINs to me too. RJ being from SARRJ at the start of the VIN, the number as Mick says, the end of the VIN.

So you would need to check the VIN of the car the engine came from.

Well its been a while since the last update. I have been patient up to this point, but patience wore thin when the mechanic told me the car no longer runs or starts and has a ECU failure. So i have recovered the car and the original engine. I may also recover some costs via the small claims court, but thats a different story. Also whilst i say patience wore thing, so did confidence.

So now i have my Rover 75 back, with a spare 2.5 engine. It would appear the low milage unit put in the car was an earlier engine, that came with different cam covers. Cam covers and injection rails have been swapped from the original block to the new block. I'm not aware of the underlying engine mechanicals changing from year to year so hopefully the base engine is sound.

The original engine failed due to mass loss of oil, as i can now see the lump i can see there is no oil leak from the rear cam covers, so i suspect its the rear cam seal, on the battery side, i wont know until i get time to get a closer look.

I've been given the name of a good auto electrician who works on other rover 75's (hmm, the last chap said he knew these cars), so will get the basics checked out. I'll try and find some time to reconnect everything and take a look myself. There was no ECU fault prior to the replacement work taking place. I'll be trawling the technical areas on the forums for advice on how to fault find from scratch (working on the principle that the state of the engine is a complete unknown)

Happy days

John